Deoghar, a small town in Jharkhand, India, known mainly as a Hindu pilgrimage centre, for me has always been a place for great food and adventure. The Tapovan hills located 10 km. from the town is one such destination. There are various legends and myths associated with this place. One of them is that sage Valmiki, who wrote Ramayana, the Indian epic, came here for penance. Raavana, the demon king of Lanka, is also believed to have come here for Lord Shiva’s boon, but remained unsuccessful as Hanuman broke his meditation.
Approaching Tapovan Hills
Although many people come here to see the temples of Taponath Mahadeva or the place where Sri Sri Balananda Brahmachari attained siddhi (enlightenment), we loved the place more for the adventurous descent down the rocky hill. There are steps to reach the hill top, and, if visiting the temples is your only interest, you can come down the same way. But the real attraction of this place is to take the tougher route and face the rocky way down. You need to hire a guide before you start your climb, as without them it is not possible to find the way down if you are not taking the steps. The guides here are extremely friendly and they literally help you take every step.
Tapovan Hills
On my last two visits (16 and 13 years ago), I used to walk all the way from Deoghar to Tapovan and back. I just loved the early morning walk through the rugged countryside with vast fields and small villages in between. The road was broken and dusty when I first visited, but on coming back for the second time, found it improved a lot.
This time we took a car. The road was great apart from the last few hundred meters where some work was going on. But as soon as we reached Tapovan we faced the only irritating thing about the place. The place is full of monkeys. Monkeys who would otherwise never disturb you. But some locals have trained them in a way that they would hold your hands, sit on your shoulders and surround you until you buy packets of peanuts for them. These locals would then force as many packets as possible in your hands before you come out of panic mode. Try to stay calm as the monkeys will just take the peanuts and not harm you.
With the monkeys satisfied, we were approached by a guide, and few minutes later finally began the climb. The hill top can be reached easily as there are proper steps throughout. From here you will get a panoramic view of the surrounding area. Vast fields, ponds and huge rocks. There was a man selling candyfloss and few people running around with cameras. For 10 rupees you can get your picture snapped and printed by them.
On hilltop
View from hilltop
After clicking some photos we entered the place were Sri Sri Balananda Brahmachari attained siddhi (enlightenment). Permanent structures have been build here and inside are idol of the Yogi and his images. We saw two skulls in that room too and were told those are of the tigers, which used to guard the Yogi.
Skulls of the tigers
Idol of Sri Sri Balananda Bramhachari
Coming out of the room, the guides asked us which way we want to take down. Of course we rejected the easy way. Earlier I used to enjoy this part of the trip. This time, though I enjoyed a lot, it was a bit difficult, as I was ridiculously overweight. I was loosing balance whenever there were slopes. But with the help of our friendly guide we managed to easily face the challenge.
On the way down, with wife
Half way down, there is a huge rock, which, going by the myths, was cracked open by Lord Hanuman, when he came to break the meditation of Ravana. The inner walls of the crack have images of Hanuman, though its impossible for someone to carve something there as the opening is not that wide. This miraculous place is worshiped as a Hanuman temple.
In front of Hanuman rock
After leaving the temple we climbed a bit, had to squeeze ourselves through rocks and then leaned on our backs to find a way under a big boulder. The closer you follow the instructions of the guide, the easier it would be. I thoroughly enjoyed the whole descent, the only regret being not able to take enough photos while coming down as for most of the time our guide was carrying my camera so that I could get some extra support. Next time I wish to come back fitter and enjoy a tougher route down.
On the way down
On the way down
You can hire auto-rickshaws or cars from Tower Chowk, Deoghar.
Being a holy place you need to take your shoes off before climbing the hill.
India is one of the many places in my bucket list. What I love about the country is its rich culture. I know there are more other nice places to see in India aside from the Taj Mahal and for sure Tapovan Hills , Deoghar is one of it. 🙂
I kind wanted wanted to visit that place – it must be so nice to be able to be in such a holy place..
Oh wow such a wonderful place! I hope to visit it one day.
I love traveling and also adventure. I wish I could visit this place too
What a nice experience. And wow you climbed the hill with no shoes on. Did it make it a lot more challenging?
It actually helped. As the surface was rocky, we got better grip without the normal shoes we were wearing.
Hopefully I get travel to India next year for both work and fun. I’ll try to negotiate going here. You seem to have had so much fun!
This looks like a really interesting place to visit. The view is amazing! I bet it made the climb worth it.
I love visiting worship places … this is quiet a different one interesting though.
I absolutely love that you hiked Tapovan Hills barefoot! Ive done my fair amount of hiking barefoot and people always look at me weird, if only they understand that you get better gripping and less injuries while barefoot.
That looks like a great experience. Hoping to visit one day 😉
I have never heard of this place before, but it sounds like I should add it to my India list. The country is so big that I’m getting a long, long list of places to visit.
Looks lovely!
You are the bare foot traveller…
I’m hoping to make it to India, there’s so many things to see and do and now I have one more to add to the list. 😉
Fascinating photos!
I will have nightmares about the peanut-swiping monkeys, but the rest sounds lovely!
Very interesting post. I’m struck by the coca cola machine in your photo – a true sign of globalization.
I have heard about the myth before 🙂 Still have so much to learn about Hindu mythology and I think I won’t have enough time to learn it all! Regarding the monkeys, can we escape them at all?
Fascinating – I love hearing about off the beaten track experiences in India!
Ahhh India… Perhaps the best example of why people shouldn’t count how many countries they’ve visited but rather the depth of the experience… You could spend years there and still be touching the surface.
Looks interesting! Would love to visit!
Wow. Facinating place. The views are wonderful. Sounds like I need to add to my gotta see list.
Wow, amazing places. You took the photo incredibly good. Maybe someday I might go to that place.
Never been to India, but surely would visit this place if I were heading there, sounds awesome!
what a lovely place to visit. I have never been but would love to now that you have shared it.
Very beautiful, Thanks for sharing!
What a great travel spot. So peaceful looking. Thank you for sharing.
I’ve been wanting to go to India so badly, this place looks like a great spot to find some great adventure!
What a spiritual and moving experience you must have felt being there! The view is also stunning!
Wow, what a unique and interesting place! I haven’t heard of it before, I’ll definitely be adding it to the list.
India is one of those places that is filled with magical places to visit and experience. Hopefully I will get to see it soon.
I wonder if I would fit in between those rocks!
But I wish someday I can visit that place 🙂
I love visiting temples on my travels, and would love to have a go at scrambling down this ascent (though I think I’d want someone to hold my camera too in case I dropped it!). Not sure about the monkeys though…
What terrific pictures you were able to get! I have never visited India, but it is definitely on my list of places to go see and explore.
Wow, your photos are absolutely amazing. We just don’t see things like that here in the US! Lovely!
Wow what gorgeous photos. I’ve always wanted to travel the world and India was one of the places I’ve always wanted to see. Especially here. Amazing.
India looks like an amazing place to visit. Not sure I could make it through those rocks!
i always want to go to India. My 85 year old grandmother broke her hip on the steps of the Taj Mahal. what a lady she was… I would love to follow in her footsteps… except the broken hip part.
I loved seeing your pictures of this amazing place. Perhaps, someday, I will get to visit too!
I have never been to India but I would love to visit someday. I would love to see those rocks in person. They are beautiful!
Fascinating. I was wondering why you were both barefoot. It is so interesting to learn about other religions and cultures. Thanks for sharing your trip.
India looks so amazing, I remember being their a few years ago; it was beautiful!
I would love to travel to India one day. The monkeys though would scare me.
This looks like a great place to visit. Your pictures climbing the rocks look like fun.
What a gorgeous place to visit! I would love to go one day 🙂 Such beautiful buildings too!
Sounds like a great place to visit except for the monkeys part, I don’t know why but everytime I visit places with monkeys they seem to like slapping people and I am yet to become the victim lol
This seems like a beautiful interesting place to visit indeed. I would maybe freak a lil with the monkeys though considering the dangers. Thanks for sharing.
This sounds like a great place. I would love to be able to visit one day.
That is quite a journey! I’ve never been to a place like this.
What a fascinating place! Your pictures show the beauty in the region. I’ve never heard of this location before.
It certainly seems like an amazing place to see.
I love blog posts like this! While I’ve never been to a place like this before, I can enjoy the beauty of it through the pictures you share on your blog. Thanks so much for sharing. 🙂
I have traveled to India but never to this spot. You have such an extraordinary country and one with remarkable beauty and contrast.
What a nice scenery! I enjoy reading the story of Hanuman temple. Squeezing through the rocks must be a fun adventure. There’s a similar rock formations near the city where I live, called Rock City in Chattanooga, Tennessee. You also have to squeeze your way through the rocks.
This place looks captivating! I would absolutely love to be able to see this place myself. Great coverage! 🙂
Amazing to see such rich culture and in such a beautiful environment. India is one of the countries we really can’t wait to visit. Your blog will invaluable to making the most out of it!
Very interesting place. Definitely worth visiting!
Looks like an awesome destination…I want to go!
Wow, it sounds like you had an amazing time in Deoghar! India is such a beautiful country, with a fascinating history. I loved reading about the Hindu myths associated with this particular area. Great post!
Woah, you guys hiked barefoot? You’re so brave lol – I would be afraid to step on a sharp rock or something. Anyways, that sounds like a lovely place to hike at – gorgeous scenery.
Wow, what a unique place to visit! I would love to go to India one day – such history!
This is definitely on my bucket list! What an incredible place and a beautiful journey!
Love spiritual places such as this! What a magnificent journey for the two of you. Awwww…The monkeys would have been enjoyable too had they not trained them to go after peanuts. 🙂
I haven’t been to India but I know people who swear by it. What a cool adventure. I am a bit claustrophobic, so no way I am squeezing in between those rocks, but maybe I’ll try other aspects LOL.
What a beautiful story, beautiful place! I love sacred places! I am not “religious” rather spiritual and I love learning about culture and the religion / beliefs of others. I also love the decent going through the caves. I don’t know how everyone can squeeze through there though lol.
India is on my bucket list! I love Indian foods, I cook indian foods too! Hope to visit soon
I’ve never been in India, now i know india is very beautiful place too.
Ahhhhh India is one place I would love to visit one day! Unfortunately with all of my world travels, India has not been a place I’ve had the pleasure of visiting yet! Hopefully one day.
That looks like a beautiful place! I’d definitely visit it one day, hopefully soon!
what a beautiful place.am sure you had great time …
Beautiful post.,.
Very neatly compiled article Sumit. I had been to this place last week. It looks so good for meditation even to day. view over the top of the hill is something marvelous. You have posted nice photographs. I also took a lot of good photos there, will upload them soon,