Deoghar, famous for Baba Baidyanath Dham and one of the 51 Sakti Pithas, is also known for its Pedha, Tilkut, Murabba and Parantha. A vegan’s delight, it can bring water to the mouths of even the biggest carnivores. We went searching for the best places to have paranthas, and got only one name from the locals. Luchchu Shah of Parantha Gali.
The Place
From Tower Chowk keep walking towards the Baidyanath Dham complex. Where the road forks into two branches, take the left one. The meandering lane is the Barabazar of Deoghar and you will notice shops selling pedha, utensils, bangles etc. Walk until you find a “T” junction and take right from there. Just before you reach a four point crossing, Luchchu Shah’s shop is on the right. This section of the lane is also known as “Parantha Gali”.
Day One : The Rest
We reached the place around 7 PM and found the shop closed. The panwala opposite the shop told us it remains open throughout the week from 6PM – 10 PM. But that day the owner was not well. So we decided to try out few other shops and return the next day for the main attraction. There were four more outlets and we finalised two of them. The first one “Pappu Ji Paranthawale” is right on the four point crossing. The only type of Parantha they had was the mixed one with sattu, gobi and alu. What was served to us was just OK and the filling was not enough. The next shop “Shree Ram Bhojnalay” had three types of paranthas. Alu, Sattu and the mixed one with alu, gobi and sattu together. Here too, like the last shop, the paranthas were served along with mixed pickles, mixed veg sabji and mustard paste. We tried all three types and they were better than the last shop, though only marginally. The filling here was tastier, but again not enough. At both the places you can buy dahi separately if you want to.
Day Two : The Best
After eating from the two shops, to be honest, we were not expecting much. But still the next day we reached Parantha Gali around 8PM. The shop has no sign boards. From the street you will first have to climb two / three steps to reach a landing where people are standing eagerly outside the door. Inside is a small room where on one side paranthas are being cooked while the elderly people in the queue are sitting on the other end. This place is takeaway only and you will get only the paranthas. No sabji, no pickles, no dahi.
There were five people on queue and one of them told me – “Order deke wait kijiye.” (Place your order and wait).
I was afraid by the time we reach our hotel and start eating, the food will get cold and we wont be able to enjoy the real taste. However I placed my order of two Aloo Paranthas and started talking with the others who were waiting.
This parantha shop is the oldest in the area and according to the locals the other shops are just trying to use its popularity. They are succeeding only because Luchchu Shah’s shop has always been a takeaway place and for that reason mainly popular among the locals. The tourists prefer a proper sit-down arrangement and accompaniments, both of which they wont be getting here.
– “Baithke khaneka bohut jaga hai, par achchha khana hai to yehi ana parega”, (There are lots of places where you can sit and eat, but for the best you will have to come here) said an elderly man who just received his food and was happily leaving the shop.
– “I was waiting for the last 40 min for this. But its really worth the wait.” he concluded with a big smile.
I was worried again as there were still four people ahead of me. To cut the tension I started talking with others.
This shop was started by Luchchu Shah and is currently run by his grandson, Karu.
“But if you ask anyone about Karu bhaiya’s shop nobody will be able to guide you. Just ask for the shop of Luchchu Shah.”, said a young man standing beside me. “Look there’s his photo!” He pointed to the far end of the room where a photo of an elderly man is hanging from the wall, almost invisible due to the thick smoke coming out of the coal fired ovens.
– “Lijiye, apka order.” (your order is ready) I was not expecting this to be told to me so quickly and initially thought it was for someone else. Then I felt bad that the shop owner broke the queue for me. But then I saw everyone looking at me with a smile.
– “Ekbar khaiega to ana parega barbar.” (If you have it once you will have to return for more) said one of them and I realized how close to their heart this shop is and how proud they feel promoting it to an outsider. I thanked them and rushed back to our hotel hoping the food remains hot.
We opened the paper container, which soaked the extra oil and made the paranthas look better, took one bite and instantly understood why it is so famous. The quantity of filling was good but what made the difference was its taste. They used ajwain (carom seeds) and pickle (maybe something else too) and it was absolutely awesome. The crispy outside and the spicy filling made it one of the best paranthas I had. We were already feeling sad that it was our last day in Deoghar.
The Best Among The Rest
If takeaway is not possible and you are looking for a proper sit-down arrangement its better to avoid the parantha gali. Instead try Hotel Sindh bang on Tower Chowk. Standing in front of the tower if you look towards the road approaching the temple, the restaurant will be just a few steps ahead on your left.
Food here is tasty and it’s much cleaner than the Parantha Gali restaurants. We tried both the Alu and the Gobi paranthas here and both, though not as good as Luchchu Shah, were much better than the other shops. The specialty here is the fat filling. Generous amount of tasty alu and gobi and what else can we ask for! This is a must try if take-away is not possible for you. Quality of paneer dishes here was also excellent.
Glad to see something from Deoghar. Deoghar is one of the best cities through which I have any relationship. I always wanted to stay there, had been there for n numbers of time, but never heard of these things. Good to read all this.
Glad you liked reading the post. Deoghar is one of my favourite destinations too. Please try the place next time you are there 🙂
I am a resident in Deoghar for last 10 years. So many times I passed by the paratha gali. But really never looked in the way you visualise in your photo and writing. Thanks to you and your third eye which shows very common things in an uncommon way to us. I like the way of your story telling which reflects your romanticism on people, culture, food, livelyhood and the way you see the small things …. amazing.
Thanks a lot for your comment Anirban! What you wrote really means a lot to me.
Hi Sumit iam Amit a Deoghar freak, live in kolkata, whr do u live. LACCHU saw , maldah bhandar , try sabji kachori at Gourango, Avantika, samosa at Devsangh ,
I really enjoyed this post, and seeing these options. This is so different than my regular day-to-day. All very new to me. 🙂
Great write-up! I never heard of Deoghar (no surprise there I suppose), but it seems an interesting place for foodies :)!
That’s some delicious looking food! Making me hungry.
Like Kristen, this one made me hungry too! Thanks for the yum post 🙂
Looks delish! I’ve never heard of parantha but I’d love to try it!
The food looks and sounds very delicious based on your photos and descriptions.
Yummy! I want to go!
Sounds delicious. I always think you get the best food if you go where the locals are eating!
I love this kind of food and posts, makes me hungry haha 😀
Yummie food!!
Now my mouth is watering! Looks like some delicious home cooking.
If only I were anywhere close I would go to have any (really any) of the food options you describe…Looks so delicious…
This looks fantastic. The food photos are making me hungry. I would for sure want to stop and eat here if visitng Deoghar –
I have never heard of this dish before, but now it is a must-try! It looks absolutely delicious and it sounds like the ordering experience itself is fun.
This is about the 5th post on food I read in a row. By far, the most interesting culinary experience – I would love to try some of the food you talk about 🙂
yes come for we will have paratha together
Very interesting read. Would love to visit! 🙂
these look great, I love bread and the varieties in India are phenomenal…its awesome.
Looks delicious, and surely well worth the search!
The food looks amazing!!! SO tasty!
Love to try those yummy looking foods 🙂
Wow looks like a great place to visit. Very interesting.
I still need to get friendly with Indian food (it has a bad tendancy to make me ill) but that looks like that kind of food might actually make me enjoy Indian food finally! Thanks for sharing!
It looks really delicious! I’m not familiar with the area but I would love to try the food there! I love Indian food!
the food looks amazing! 🙂 YUM
I dont think I have come across this place in readings before. Its was great learning about different places around the world from other travelers.
Alu paratha is just another name for heaven! I’ll be sure to try these places if I’m ever in Deoghar.
Something worth trying when we’re in the area. I hope one day our travels will lead us to Deoghar.
Wow!! I love to try those dishes, too!!! As usual, your photos are amazing!
Looks enticing and yummy.. I wish there’s a branch in my country too.. I would like to try it for myself 🙂
I haven’t tried any of those but it sure sounds interesting. I would love to try those dishes!
Looks interesting to try. But is that chili? I love spicy food, but I’ve not eaten chili on its own.
You really had great local dishes and places to eat in different days. All the foods look tasty.
I am more thankful to have this for dinner. It is so tempting
I never had these before – looks yummy!
sir ji me ownear of sri ram bhojnalay.
come on my shop one time & test my
spacieal ” Deoghariya paratha” u will nevar forget its taste lifetime.my shop is opning since 1950. plz u must come one time in” sri ram bhojnalay” for fresh 100% sudh clasical taste of “Deoghariya paratha”
aftar visit my shop u will surprize due to our servise. we need ur sport.
http://www.SHRIRAMBHOJNALAY.Com
Ram baran lal ji
Bhero Bajar paratha gali.
DEOGHAR Jharkhand.
near BABADHAM MANDIR.
mob.-+91 9204795024.
Well it’s my hometown..n even I love luchu shah s paratha..u should have tried the sattu paratha as well..n instead of going to Hotel Sindh u should have visited Hotel kamdhenu..dts one of the best restaurants we have in our town..hopefully u ll go back there soon someday
Deoghar is my hometown. Your article is very interesting, for I came to know of an eatery I had never visited during my stay there. I had heard of it, though. Felt nostalgic because I no longer stay there. My favorite eateries were Avantika, Gourang and Rasraj.
Nice read.. I suggest that you may give link for Google address for the location of eatery.. Would be much easier to locate